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The Best Time for Lawn Seeding and Aeration

Well Marylanders, it is that time of year again. We need to talk about planting grass seeds.

Seeding should be done during the fall season but can be done from now until mid-October. For best results, seeding should be done during September. This time of year provides warm soils and a good environment for the seeds to germinate properly. This also prevents growth of weeds that could overgrow or destroy your grass. Continue reading The Best Time for Lawn Seeding and Aeration

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Summer Disease Warning!!

Due to hot and humid weather, we are seeing a higher than normal amount of Brown Patch Disease in lawns. Brown Patch is a disease that affects most grass types in our area. Tall Fescues show the most resistance but still can be affected. The appearance of Brown Patch is that of a burnt look with oblong patterns typically in sunny areas of the lawn. Brown Patch will start out as small circular areas but as they grow and run into one another they get their oblong shape. They can also be found in shaded areas in bad infestations. The disease takes hold on a lawn once nighttime temperatures are above 60 degrees and daytime temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees. Then all that needs to happen is for the grass blades to stay wet for 10 12 hours. This usually happens during overcast periods after rains or heavy dew. Continue reading Summer Disease Warning!!

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Bagworm Alert!!

We have started noticing bagworm activity in our area. Bagworms feed heavily on evergreens such as Leyland Cypress, Arborvitae, Spruces, and other plant types. These insects have been known to fully defoliate an entire tree. Even though they have the name bagworm, they don’t start out with a bag. They build a bag around them using silk they produce and plant material from the plant they are on. This is good for the bagworm but bad for us. Not having a bag surrounding them means that they are vulnerable to insect sprays and predatory insects and birds. Continue reading Bagworm Alert!!

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Does your lawn Feel the Heat?

Maryland Weather

It’s been a crazy year for weather so far. It feels like it was warmer in March than it has been in May. However, this week is pulling in high numbered temperatures that indicate summer is around the corner. With the weather being as unstable as its been, we are noticing some winter weeds lasting further into the year than normal. Insect and disease activity are just now starting to pick up. Every year Mother Nature provides us with new challenges, this year being no different. Continue reading Does your lawn Feel the Heat?

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Pre-emergents for Weed Control

The days are getting longer, and spring has finally sprung.

Weeds have become an increasingly frustrating sight, taking control of your beautiful yard and garden. Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions, plantain, and clover, have reared their ugly heads. The broadleaf weeds will be treated with the Late Spring Application once the weeds start actively growing. It is important to get the pre-emergent crabgrass control down before the crabgrass germinates. Continue reading Pre-emergents for Weed Control

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What’s New At Royal Greens

keep Your lawn green this summer in Ellicott City, MD

Customer Assistant Website:

This isn’t really a new feature but it is a great one. For about 4 years now, customers have been able to access their account online through our website. On our website, you simply click on customer login and you will be taken to a completely secure website that allows you access to your account. From here you can pay your bill securely, look at past services, look at future services, request service calls, sign up for beneficial services, see what technicians have recommended on your property and much, much more. It is the most convenient way to monitor your account and keep up to date on all goings-on.

Continue reading What’s New At Royal Greens

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Winter Injury to Trees and Shrubs in Frederick


Winter Desiccation:

Because of the prolonged and climatic conditions this winter we are already starting to see many signs of winter injury on Trees and Shrubs.

Winter Desiccation will probably be the most common damage we will see this spring. Desiccation occurs when the water leaves the plants faster than it is taken up. During severely cold periods the ground may freeze to a depth below the extent of the root system, which cuts off the supply of the water. Although the damage mostly occurs on evergreens, it can damage deciduous plants also. The actual severity of the damage can vary greatly depending on many factors such as plant variety, location, wind and sun exposure.

The least severe damage caused by desiccation is generally referred to as Winterburn. This is the browning or scorched leaf tips on evergreen foliage. Browning usually occurs from the needle/leaf tip downward. In mild cases when the branches or woody tissue has not been damaged, new growth will push out the damaged leaves/needles. Typically after the spring flush of new growth, the plant will recover.

In severe cases with damage to the branches, the dead parts of the plant will have to be removed. In some situations, removal of the plant is the best option.

There are several things that can be done to help reduce the risk of winter desiccation to your plants.

  • Select hardy plants from the start. Avoid planting out of their hardiness zone.
  • If we have a dry fall, give your plants a good watering before winter.
  • Make sure all plants have at least 2 inches of mulch around them.
  • If you have certain plants that are more susceptible to desiccation, put up temporary wind blocks.
  • Keep your plants will fertilized.
  • An Anti-desiccant can be sprayed to prevent water loss. More than one application will be necessary to achieve winter long protection.

If you are seeing signs of winter desiccation on your plants now, we would recommend waiting to see how severe the damage is before doing anything. If the leaves/needles are just burned, you will see signs of new growth emerging from the branches. If the is the case let Mother Nature take her course. If you didn’t fertilize your plants in the fall, you should fertilize them now. If you are not seeing any new growth on the branches and the branches are dried out and break easily, you will have to prune the dead plant material back until you hit green live tissue. Again if you didn’t fertilize in the fall, do so now. If the plant is severely damaged and you think it will take a long time to recover and/or it will be a continuing problem, removal may be your best option.

Snow and Ice Breakage:

Heavy snow and ice storms can cause damage to branches by bending and breaking them. Multi-stemmed plants are most prone to damage. Many hardwoods, especially maples and Bradford pears, are susceptible to breakage. Properly pruned trees will reduce the risk of injury. If the snow and ice has less area to collect, it will reduce the weight of the snow and ice.

Girdling by Animals:

Another common problem is girdling from mice and rabbits from their feeding on the bark of the plants. Usually the damage occurs in long periods of snow cover when the food supplies get low. To prevent damage, maintain a weed and grass area at least 2 feet in radius around your plants. You can also wrap the trunks or branches with wire mesh. Make sure it goes below ground level and up to 2-3 feet in height. The mesh should be removed in the spring. If your plant has been completely girdled around the base, it will die.

If you have any concerns or questions about your plant material, please contact us.

Hope everyone has a great spring!